These places aren’t top of the Polish charts. I liked its cities and towns, its bricks and mortar. I liked what it had, what it could claim as its own. I went north to Gdańsk and the Polish Riviera, east to Warsaw and the lakes of Masuria, and south to Wrocław, the mountains and Łódź, the Polish Hollywood. Over the next year, whenever I wasn’t required to peel spuds or bone cod, I skipped town and hit the road. It is the sense of a country still recovering, still correcting itself, and yet still flourishing Within a month, I had a job in a fish and chip shop. Within a week, I was sharing a flat with an engineer called Jędrzej. Within an hour I was in a pub called Dragon sampling śliwowica (plum brandy) and pierogi (dumplings). Despite the cold, I stood looking in the windows of shops and bars and wondered at their unsubtle inducements to sample such things as wódka wiśniowa (cherry vodka) and legginsy (leggings).
I was instantly taken by the colourful building fronts, the elaborate gables, the engrossing main square. The bus delivered me to Poznań’s old town.
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